Patterns
Beaded Hat
Note: There is a knit stitch on either end as selvage to make it easier and neater to sew the side seam later. If you convert this to knit it in the round, ditch those selvage stitches. I’ve thrown in a bonus pattern for mittens.
Gauge
5 sts/inch over stockinette
Brim
(In this section, B refers to placing a bead via the strung bead technique)
String 72 beads
C.O. 98
Row 1: K3 (B2 K2 P2 K2) to last 3 stitches P2 Kl
Row 2: P1 (K2 P2) to last stitch P
Row 3: K3 (P2 K2) to last 3 stitches K3
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 1 inch ending on row 2.
Repeat row 1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 1 inch ending on row 2.
Repeat row 1.
(In this section, B refers to hooking a bead)
Row 2: K24 B2 K44 B2 K24
Row 4: K23 B1 K2 B1 K42 B1
Row 6: Repeat row 4
Rows 7 - 18: Repeat rows 1 - 6 two more times.
Row 20: Repeat row 2
Row 2: K1 (K6 K2Tog) across K1
Row 4: K1 (K5 K2Tog) across K1
Row 6: K1 (K4 K2Tog) across K1
Row 8: K1 (K3 K2Tog) across K1
Row 10: K1 (
Row 12: K1 (K K2Tog) across K1
Row 14: K1 K2Tog across K1
Bind off and sew the seam. Weave in ends.
This kit, size 8 double pointed needles, or size needed for gauge, one darning needle.
Gauge
5 sts/inch over stockinette
Cuff (both hands)
(In this section, B refers to placing a bead via the strung bead technique)
String 24 Beads
CO 32 and divide onto three needles
Round 1: (K2 B2
Round 2: (
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 1 inch.
Repeat Round 1.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 2 inches.
Repeat Round 1.
Thumb Gusset (left hand)
(In this section, B refers to placing a bead via the hooked bead technique)
Round 1 and all odd rounds: Knit plain
Round 2: Increase in first stitch. K6. B2. K22. Increase 1.
Round 4: K1 Inc 1. K5. B1.
Round 6: K2 Inc 1. K5. B1.
Round 8: K3 Inc 1. K6. B2. K22. Increase 1. Knit to end.
Round 10: K4 Inc 1. K5. B1.
Knit around until there are 5 stitches remaining. Move the ten thumb stitches (the first five and the last five of the round) onto scrap yarn. Cast on 2 stitches as start of round to close gap. Slide one of these to needle 1 at the end of the first round.
Thumb Gusset (right hand)
(In this section, B refers to placing a bead via the hooked bead technique)
Round 1 and all odd rounds: Knit plain
Round 2: Increase in first stitch. K22. B2. K6. Increase 1.
Round 4: K1 Inc 1. K21. B1.
Round 6: K2 Inc 1. K21. B1.
Round 8: K3 Inc 1. K22. B2. K6. Increase 1. Knit to end.
Round 10: K4 Inc 1. K21. B1.
Knit around until there are 5 stitches remaining. Move the ten thumb stitches (the first five and the last five of the round) onto scrap yarn. Cast on 2 stitches as start of round to close gap. Slide one of these to needle 1 at the end of the first round.
Hand (left hand)
(In this section, B refers to placing a bead via the hooked bead technique. Note, this continues the bead pattern as established.)
Round 1 K6 B1
Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit plain
Round 3 K6 B1
Round 5 K7 B2 K to end
Repeat rounds 1 through 6 until the mitten, when tried on, comes just past the tip of your pinky.
Repeat round 1.
Hand (right hand)
(In this section, B refers to placing a bead via the hooked bead technique. Note, this continues the bead pattern as established.)
Round 1 K23 B1
Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit plain
Round 3 K23 B1
Round 5 K24 B2 K to end
Repeat rounds 1 through 6 until the mitten, when tried on, comes just past the tip of your pinky.
Repeat round 1.
Decrease top (both hands)
Round 1 and all odd rounds: Knit plain
Round 2: K1 SSK K 14 K2Tog
Round 4: K1 SSK K 12 K2Tog
Round 6: K1 SSK K 10 K2Tog
Round 8: K1 SSK K 8 K2Tog
Round 10: SSK K6 K2Tog
Graft top closed.
Thumb
Take thumb stitches off scrap yarn and divide onto three needles (3, 4, 3)
Pick up five stitches from the finger side to close gap. (12 sts total)
Decrease 3 stitches, one on each needle, on first row.
Knit plain until the thumb comes to the base of the nail.
Round 1 and all odd rounds: Knit plain
Round 2: K1 K2Tog K3 SSK K4
Round 4:
Round 6: K2 Tog K2 SSK
Round 8:
Graft thumb closed.
Weave in ends.
Lace Scarf
Materials
Size 6 needles
200 yards sports weight yarn. Amount can vary. If you start to run out, just end off earlier.
Pattern
Cast on 26 stitches.
Knit 3 rows in garter stitch (knit every row)
Pattern row 1 - K3, (Yarn Over (YO), SSK, K2) 5 times, K3
Pattern row 2 (and all even rows) - K 3, P 20, K 3
Pattern row 3 - K3, (K1, YO, SSK, K1) 5 times, K3
Pattern row 5 - K3, (K2, YO, SSK) 5 times, K3
Repeat these 6 rows for as long as you want your scarf to be (typically 50 - 60 inches) or until you start to run out of yarn.
Knit 3 rows.
Bind off.
Socks–Sock Weight Version
Materials
Size 1 US/2.25mm dpns, set of four.
100 grams of sock weight yarn.
Cuff
Cast on 64 sts and divide evenly amongst 3 needles.
Work in k2 p2 ribbing for 2 inches
Work plain stockinette until the piece measures 7 inches from the cast on edge (2 inches of ribbing and 5 inches of stockinette).
Heel Flap
We’re goint to work this over half the stitches (32).
Row 1: K3 (K1 sl1) until 3 sts remain K3.
Row 2: K3 P26 K3 Repeat until heel flap is 2 inches long ending on row 2.
Turning the heel
Row 1: K 16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p1, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k2, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p3, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, k4, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6: Sl 1, p5, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, k6, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8: Sl 1, p7, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 9: Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10: Sl 1, p9, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12: Sl 1, p11, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 13: Sl 1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14: Sl 1, p13, p2 tog, p1, turn.
There should be 18 stitches remaining.
Gusset
Knit across the heel stitches.
Take a needle (needle 1) and pick up and knit one stitch between each garter ridge along the heel flap. Count your stitches so that you can make sure the other side matches. To prevent a hold pick one up very close to the needle holding your instep stitches and knit it together with the first stitch on the instep.
With a different needle (needle 2) knit across your 32 instep stitches. You want to keep these seperate for when it’s time to decrease the gusset. When you get to the last stitch, pick up one stitch along the side of the heel close to the needle and knit both together to prevent a hole.
Take another needle (needle 3) and pick up and knit one stitch between each garter ridge along the side of the heel flap. Make sure you’ve picked up the same number from both sides. You can “fudge” a little to make that happen. Continue with that needle and knit 9 stitches from the heel. Slide the remaining 9 heel stitches to needle 1.
Round 1: Knit needle 1 until there are 3 stitches left. K2tog K1. Knit across needle 2. On needle 3 K1 SSk Knit across.
Round 2: Knit all the stitches.
Repeat these two rows until you’re back to your original 64 stitches. Pat yourself on the back. You’ve just done the hardest part of sock knitting. Clear skies abound. Keep going around and around knitting all the stitches until the sock, when tried on, comes to the ball of your foot. It’s important to try it on since they will stretch a little.
Toe
Round 1: Knit needle 1 until there are 3 stitches left. K2tog K1. On needle 2 K1 SSK knit to the last 3 sts. K2tog K1. On needle 3 K1 SSk Knit across.
Round 2: Knit all the stitches.
Repeat these two rows until 16 total stitches remain.
Kitchener closed the toe, just as we did for the mitten in video 9. Weave in ends and start your second sock.
Socks–Sports Weight Version
Materials
Size 3 US/3.25 mm dpns, set of four.
100 grams of sports weight yarn.
Cuff
Cast on 56 sts and divide evenly amongst 3 needles.
Work in k1 p1 rib for 2 inches
Work plain stockinette until the piece measures 7 inches from the cast on edge (2 inches of ribbing and 5 inches of stockinette).
Heel Flap
We’re goint to work this over half the stitches (28).
Row 1: K3 (K1 sl1) until 3 sts remain K3.
Row 2: K3 P22 K3
Repeat until heel flap is 2 inches long ending on row 2.
Turning the heel
Row 1: K 17, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p7, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p9, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Continue in this manner until you have 18 stitches remaining ending on a purl row. This is a slightly rounder heel than the dpn version. Given the bigger gauge it should fit better.
Gusset
Knit across the heel stitches. Take a needle (needle 1) and pick up and knit one stitch between each garter ridge along the heel flap. Count your stitches so that you can make sure the other side matches. To prevent a hold pick one up very close to the needle holding your instep stitches and knit it together with the first stitch on the instep.
With a different needle (needle 2) knit across your 28 instep stitches. You want to keep these seperate for when it’s time to decrease the gusset. When you get to the last stitch, pick up one stitch along the side of the heel close to the needle and knit both together to prevent a hole.
Take another needle (needle 3) and pick up and knit one stitch between each garter ridge along the side of the heel flap. Make sure you’ve picked up the same number from both sides. You can “fudge” a little to make that happen. Continue with that needle and knit 9 stitches from the heel. Slide the remaining 9 heel stitches to needle 1.
Round 1: Knit needle 1 until there are 3 stitches left. K2tog K1. Knit across needle 2. On needle 3 K1 SSk Knit across.
Round 2: Knit all the stitches.
Repeat these two rows until you’re back to your original 56 stitches. Pat yourself on the back. You’ve just done the hardest part of sock knitting. Clear skies abound. Keep going around and around knitting all the stitches until the sock, when tried on, comes to the ball of your foot. It’s important to try it on since they will stretch a little.
Toe
Round 1: Knit needle 1 until there are 3 stitches left. K2tog K1. On needle 2 K1 SSK knit to the last 3 sts. K2tog K1. On needle 3 K1 SSk Knit across.
Round 2: Knit all the stitches.
Repeat these two rows until 16 total stitches remain.
Kitchener closed the toe, just as we did for the mitten in video 9.
Weave in ends and start your second sock.
Mittens
Materials
A set of 4 size 8 US/5.0 mm double pointed needles.
200 yards/200 meters of a worsted weight yarn.
2 stitch markers (rubber bands will do).
Gauge
5 stitches to the inch over stockinette
Pattern
Measure your wrist. Multiply that number by 5 and then round down to the nearest multiple of 4. E-mail me if you have problems figuring out what I’m talking about. This is your cast on number. For example: my wrists are 6 inches around. 6 * 5 = 30, but 30 doesn’t go evenly into 4 so I round down and cast on 28 stitches. Join, being careful not to twist.
Knit K2P2 ribbing around for two inches.
Knit 1 round plain.
Inc in first stitch. Place marker. K to last stitch in round. Place marker (often abbreviated as PM). Increase in last stitch. That’s your set up.
Round 1: K
Round 2: K to 1 stitch before marker. Inc 1. Slip marker. K to marker. Slip marker Inc 1. Knit to end of round.
Repeat these two rounds until the mitten, when tried on, comes just past the bottom joint of your thumb. Count how many stitches you have between the markers. You’ll need this information to make the second mitten the same.
Move the stitches between the markers onto a piece of scrap yarn. Knit around the remaining stitches until the mitten comes just to the tip of your pinkie when tried on.
Now we start the decreases. First, some math. Take your cast on number and subtract 2. That should be your current number of stitches. For me, that’s 28 - 2 = 26. Divide it in half. For me, that’s 13. Subtract 2. For me that’s 11.
Round 1. SSK K X Stitches. K2 tog. K X stitches. For me that would be SSK K11 K2Tog K11.
Round 2: Knit Now you need to subtract 1 from X and do the same thing again. For me that would be SSK K10 K2Tog K10.
Repeat these two rows until the mitten, when tried on, comes to just past your tallest finger.
Kitchener the top closed.
Now you’re going to make the thumb stitches live. Pick up two stitches along the finger side to close the gap. Knit around until it comes to the middle of the ball of the thumb. Count your stitches, divide them in half and subtract 1. Call that number X. Repeat the decrease rows you had for the fingers until the thumb is covered and kitchener that closed.
Make a second mitten to match. If you’re having any problems figuring out the formula, e-mail me at Ivy@KnittingStepByStep.com.
Hat
With this pattern we get into the purl stitch and the basics of shaping.
Materials
200 yards worsted weight yarn
size 8 US/ 5.0MM needles
Gauge
5 stitches to the inch over stockinette stitch. You’ll learn stockinette in the first of our hat videos, episode 5.
Pattern
Brim
Cast on 96 stitches.
Row 1: K2 P2 Across Repeat Row 1 until your piece is 2 inches long.
Body
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Repeat rows 1 and 2 (stockinette stitch) until the hat is 7 inches long, measuring from the cast on edge, ending after row 2.
Crown
Row 1: *K6, K2Tog Rep from * to end of row
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: *K5, K2Tog Rep from * to end of row
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: *K4, K2Tog Rep from * to end of row
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: *K3, K2Tog Rep from * to end of row
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: *K2, K2Tog Rep from * to end of row
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: *K1, K2Tog Rep from * to end of row
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: K2Tog Rep to end of row
Gather remaining stitches on a yarn needle and pull them together tightly. Seam up side edge and weave in ends.
Garter Stitch Scarf
This is the most basic pattern, and the traditional pattern to start new knitters on.
Materials
400 yards worsted weight yarn
size 8 US/ 5.0MM needles
Pattern
Cast on 40 stitches
Knit every row until the scarf is 60 inches long
Cast off and weave in ends.


